Your first vintage watch: what to check before choosing

Start with how you will wear it

Think about your routine before choosing a brand or reference. Are you looking for an everyday watch, something for special occasions or an addition to your collection? Set a budget you are comfortable with and allow for possible servicing. An attractive photograph starts the conversation; there is still more to learn about the watch.

Look at the whole watch

Ask for clear photographs of the dial, case, lugs, crown and caseback. Ask about wear, repairs and replaced components. A dial that has changed colour may have aesthetic appeal, but distinguish what can be seen from what is documented. Photographs alone cannot answer every question about authenticity or mechanical condition.

Separate what is known from what is missing

The brand, model, reference, dimensions and movement type help describe a watch. Its year may be approximate: ask for that to be made clear when documentation is inconclusive. Knowing a calibre or reference is no substitute for examining the individual watch. If something is unconfirmed, put that in writing before deciding.

Ask about servicing and terms

Ask when the last service took place and whether records are available. Request the delivery, warranty and return terms for that transaction, along with the price and included accessories. Do not assume an older watch retains its original water resistance: that use requires an appropriate current assessment.

Take your time

Compare what you value in each watch: design, size, preservation and the information available. Turn any remaining uncertainty into a specific question. At Lume&Patina, you can enquire about watches in the collection and discuss your search before agreeing to a purchase.

Further reading: OMEGA's general care recommendations. The brand explains that water resistance is not permanently guaranteed.

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